From buzzing North Goa we moved to much more peaceful South Goa. For our temporary new home we picked Agonda Beach. It’s located 5 miles away from Canacona. Place is known for being less commercialised, so no parties and no bars on the beach, cleaner water and nice surrounding areas. Perfect place for proper rest.
Crazy bus drive from north to South Goa
We moved out at early morning from our house on Arambol Beach. Had no idea where the bus stop was or what time bus was coming. Very hot weather made our backpacks feel way heavier. We walked 1.5 miles towards main road. When we got there we dropped our backpacks on the ground and decided that one of us was staying with our packs while other one was looking for a bus stop. Luckily we didn’t have to go anywhere as our bus was right around the corner. The same bus which brought us here – noisy, smelly, falling apart with bars instead of windows, big, red bus. We were noticed by a driver who was shouting to us, Mapusa!, Mapusa! We got inside in a hurry as he stopped for a second only and took off while we were entering the bus. We chucked our stuff and stood in the corner. Bus was overloaded as always and we were squeezed, but finally on the move again. That was the begining of our very fast travel (for India) through almost whole Goa. We barely managed to get out from one bus and conductors from other buses were pushing us to another one. Everybody wanted to have Europeans on boars (theyprobably thought we would pay more for a bus ticket…). We didn’t have to wait on any out of 5 buses. It seemed like they were waiting for us. Right after we got inside they were leaving bus stands. We did over 100 kilometres in 2 hours – that’s good result in India!
Our route Arambol – Agonda:
Backpackers routine in India
When we arrived to Agonda we started to look for accomodation. Rules were simple. There was main road along the beach, the only road in the village. Prices for a room from the beach side of the road – way over 1000 rupiees, the other side of the road around – 500 rupiees. Width of the road was making a huge difference there. After walking for a couple of minutes we managed to find nice, cheap and clean room with an internet access. It was small bungalow with three rooms. We were given keys for the middle room. Two other rooms were occupied by Brits. We were like back in UK but with sun and palms.
We unpacked our stuff quickly. After doing it so many times we are very good at it. Our unpacking routine is: Chev sets mosquito net while Anna is taking a shower, then we swap: Anna does our bed while Czarek is having a shower. Hammock goes first (it is like our bed sheet, some kind of additional shield keeping us away from dirt of the mattresses, yeah, we’re in India, don’t forget 😉 ), our silk sleeping bag goes on the top of hammock. Then we unpack rest of our equipment on a table or chairs. Most of it stays in dry bags to keep it away from ants, lizards and whoever knows from what else. After, we do loundry – hand-wash in a bucket, of course (we had buckets in all rooms so far). We could take our dirty clothes to loundry, but those places unfortunately have no washing machines. Instead there is a big flat stone, soap, river or other natural source of water (dirty one). Washing programme looks like this: laundress puts clothes flat on the stone, rub a soap into it, wet it a little bit, then she makes a roll out of it and litteraly pounds the stone using clothes… then rinses it with some water and with unhuman power twisting it to get rid of excess of water. Something like 100 years ago in Europe. We are afraid of giving our clothes for washing, because we wanted to save on backpack weight and we didn’t take many. We think we can do it better and it costs nothing, but the soap 🙂
How does Agonda Beach look like?
In the town, near hotels:
And a little bit further, at the south end of Agonda Beach: (something like in Seychelles 🙂 )
Surroundings of Agonda on a scooter
To see the place by ourself only (not with rikshaw guy) we rented a scooter again. It was without fuel, as always. People who has scooters for rent, figured out good business. They give you a scooter without fuel, so you buy it from them. 80 rupiees per litre when on petrol station is only for 55 rupiees. You have no choice but buy overpriced fuel as pushing heavy scooter in such a hot weather is not what you want to do. When you bring scooter back, it has some fuel left in the tank which is drained again and another customer buys it. This way they do at least 1/3 of the price extra. 25 rupiees is not much, but we don’t like being ripped off. Moreover, English couple living next to us knew the place and they explained us how to get to nearest petrol station, which was 5 miles away so we bought only 1 litre from that guy which was enough to reach the petrol station, we set off.
We went to see Palolem Beach first. Nice beach, but for us it was a little bit overcrowded. Not much sand, a lot of people, bars, and sun beds.
Then we went further south. We didn’t want to go too far from water so chose narrow, but wide enough for a scooter, paths between huts. We got lost a little bit, but thanks to our luck we found something this:
Another beaches were right at the border of Karnataka and almost without anybody on. On Talpona Beach we were the only people there and one lifeguard. We hang our hammock between palms and were chilling for 3 hours. Water in Arabian Sea had about 30C and it was so nice to swim. View at Talpona beach:
The very last beach in South Goa is Galibag Beach, after it, state of Karnataka. Without any people there too, like not in India!
Next part ut trave stories from South Goa here: Finally peaceful and quiet place – South Goa, part 2